Saturday, September 14, 2013

Life at the End of the World

Life at the End of the World

 ¨You have great impact on others by the way you listen, than by the way you talk.¨ - Unknown

We crossed the Strait of Magellan by ferry to arrive on the island of Tierra del Fuego

Sheep Farming


Hitchhiking from Puerto Natales was an adventure, and I arrived at the farm after several different rides from several different characters. Life at Por Fin was quite an awesome experience. The small sheep farm is run by the Maclean family of Scottish background. Patrick and his son Michael are the main farmers. Daniela, Michael's girlfriend, and the local that lives there year round, Telo, help on the farm as well. 

I arrived not knowing what to experience, other than the life of a sheep farmer. To my surprise, I learned a lot more than just the farm life. Patrick, Michael and Daniela opened my eyes to a healthier mindset, the life cycle and how peaceful farm life can be. 

Set in the middle of nowhere more than an hour from any small town, the house is run on wind energy, wood burning stoves and love. No cars, no streets, no light pollution, no signs of city. Peace.

The simple life includes listening to birds singing, watching animals roam the rolling hills, enjoying sunrises and sunsets, noticing the weather every day, playing music, eating delicious food and finding the inner peace inside yourself that is shared amongst nature. 
Some of the farm jobs I learned are chopping wood, building fences, herding sheep, clearing dead sheep and saving nearly dead sheep. 

10 beautiful days passed by rapidly, but I will always remember the incredible hospitality shared by Patrick, Michael and Daniela. Thanks you again!!






Patrick, Michael, Dani and me enjoy a meal



Michael and I pose in front of the wood we chopped for heat in the house

Rainbow overlooking the farm and a water hole

The newborn colt stays near her mother. The farm has nearly 30 horses

The stones in the foreground of this picture are in a circular formation. Less than 100 years ago, their were indigenous familes living on this land. This area marks where they once had a teepee. What makes this area so special is that no one has roamed the land except for the Maclean family since the natives were killed.

Hitching a Ride to Wherever You´ll Take Me

The Maclean family gave me a ride to the northernmost part of Tierra del Fuego, where I could most easily hitchhike to other parts of the island. We said our goodbyes and I began sticking my thumb out to the truckers and cars coming off the ferry from the Strait of Magellan. Quite a beautiful place to find for a ride, it took several hours before my ride found me. A trucker named Luis hauling fruits and vegetables from Mendoza, Argentina, offered to give me a ride to Rio Grande. Perfect, I´ll go there! We set off around sunset and drove into the night until 10 pm. He offered for me spend the night in his truck cabin with him instead of paying for a hostel. I hesitantly agreed as I had never spent the night in an 18 wheeler truck cabin. Luis is a great person, and offered me rides to and from Tierra del Fuego and Mendoza whenever I want.

The next morning, I sent messages through couchsurfing, a website where people share a place to stay for free. I got a response from a mom named Nancy and decided to stay with her. What a pleasure to stay with Nancy!! Natalia, a friend of hers, picked me up and drove me to her house. As we arrived, lunch was getting prepared by Nancy and her daughter Ludmila. A week passed by quickly in Rio Grande as I found interesting museums about the indigenous culture on the island, attended tango and guitar lessons, shared many laughs, delicious food and great conversations with Natalia, Nancy and her family. Thanks so much for the warm hospitality and the love you share!



Nancy and I share a glass of wine
We went mussell hunting in the Atlantic Ocean! We filled our buckets to later cook and enjoy

Tolhuin

Nancy had asked a friend of hers that lives in Tolhuin, a small town 60 miles south of rio grande, if I could spend some time with her family. Valeria, her husband Leonardo and their three boys welcomed me to their home for the weekend. They live in the middle of a small forest outside of town in a house they built. Thanks for everything you shared with me. 


Leo, Valeria, their sons and me enjoy a meal in their quaint home



Overlooking Lago Khami at sunset. This lake sits on the southern end of the island, is part Chilean and part Argentine, and sits on a fault line.


Ushuaia


After several days in Tolhuin, I hitchhiked to Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world. Upon arrival, it began to snow. As I looked around, I saw the Beagle Canal and sailboats to the south, and the city nestled in front of snow capped mountains to the north. Snow began to fall as I began to walk around town to find a hostel.
I have spent several days in Ushuaia, hiking trails nearby and sharing with the locals living here. The first night I stayed in a hostel, and afterwards I was welcomed by another couchsurfer, Mariela. Thanks for opening your home to me Mariela! 



The Beagle Canal hosts sailboats in front of the towering mountains

Tomorrow, September 15th, I will leave for National Park Tierra del Fuego to hike and camp. It is winter still, but I have the desire and the gear to explore. After hiking, I assume I will head north, as I do not have the option to travel further south unless by boat.

Tierra del Fuego National Park


At the hostel in Ushuaia, I met some great friends. Lu, Flo, Maria are Argentinians and Kyle from California. We hiked around the park together enjoying a beautiful day

I camped out for three nights on a small island in the park. Pretty beautiful view to wake up and see!

Near my campsite the views were amazing
 I am currently traveling north via the Atlantic coast of Argentina. The general idea is to take advantage of the season for whale watching.

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